[Textile Knowledge] Liquid Flow Dyeing Process Mercerizing And Salt Shrinkage Finishing
One
Gas / liquid flow dyeing process
Traditional gas / liquid flow dyeing is mostly used for pretreatment and dyeing of knitted fabrics or chemical fiber fabrics. The new gas / liquid flow dyeing can meet the needs of the multi organization, multi style, small batch and different variety changes of cotton and its multi fiber woven fabrics at present.
In the process of product development and innovation, gas / liquid flow can achieve the combination of dyeing and style finishing.
(1) loose glutinous pliable (full rigid), soft soft high elastic fabric, especially polyester containing fabric.
(2) surface crepe fabric (such as cotton brocade interwoven fabric, "salt shrinkage" water washed dyed fabric and fabrics with different twist yarns).
(3) the pretreatment of the cylinder, natural shrinkage of dyeing, and natural crepe leisure style fabric with natural texture;
Thin fabric, jacquard fabric, double low warp and weft gauze fabric;
(5) suede fabric (pure cotton and warp polyester / nylon composite silk) with clear surface texture and invisible fur.
6. High color fastness fabric (dark color wet fastness grade 3 or above, multi fiber stained 4 or more children's clothing, tooling fabrics);
Protein containing fibers, such as wool, silk and rabbit hair.
"Salt shrink" linen products, Tencel TM products, thin viscose fabric, strong twist, etc.
Two
Traditional mercerization and salt shrinkage
The traditional mercerizing lye concentration is generally at 23~26 degrees B, the swelling of cellulose is limited, and in the presence of tension, it will impede the penetration of lye into the fiber capsule, and cause surface mercerization. "Salt shrinkage" is the use of 36 degree B of alkali in the condition of no tension conditions mercerizing, so that the fiber will produce sufficient swelling and contraction, the effect is to increase the color and fullness of the fabric, rich and compact, smooth and flexible, suitable for cotton fabrics and linen fabrics. Because flax fiber is a bundle structure, after "salt shrinkage" treatment, it will produce more severe shrinkage, which will make fabric structure become more compact, resulting in a compact feeling that can not be formed through weaving. After continuous shrinkage or flaxening, the washing effect of different shrinkage will be different.
Fabric processed by salt shrinkage process
In addition, different alkali liquor can make mercerizing the wood and viscose fibers, improving the uneven coloring of 2 kinds of fibers and the low saturation of color when interwoven with cotton fibers. After processing, viscose filament can also be used to imitate the characteristics of chemical fiber.
Three
Emery polishing and biological polishing
In processing delicate windbreaker fabrics and shirt fabrics, it is necessary to clean the surface of the fabric, smooth, clear texture, soft luster, delicate touch (not seen, but touching). First use emery sanding (240/400 mesh, 12 for different fabric combinations), and then bipolished, remove the surface of the long hair, get fine micro villi, achieve suede style effect.
Fabric processed by emery polishing and bipolishing
For pure Tencel TM fabric, it can be used to Emery and open fiber and biologically polished. It can reduce the abrasion caused by fibrillation and produce soft and peach skin. The touch is uniform and fine, and the rate of authentic product is high. This process can also be used for polyester brocade composite silk fabric to reduce the problem of too soft and soft waxy cloth caused by alkali reduction, so that it can meet the characteristics of windbreaker and jacket fabric, such as springiness and softness.
Four
Net coating technology
Net coating technology is mainly used to develop single splash and single suction (one side splashing water, one side absorbable) and two color fabrics. The waterproof and moisture permeability of woven fabrics is mainly achieved by the 3XDRY finishing technology introduced by Schoeller. The viscosity of the waterproofing agent and thickener will be adjusted to 16000~18000 mPa / S (the normal printing paste viscosity is 4000~5000 mPa. S). For the thickness of the fabric, the full exposure strengthened nickel mesh will be applied to the surface of the fabric in a dot matrix arrangement. It requires a semi wetting state to achieve single side waterproofing, single side moisture conduction, breathability, one-way moisture absorption and sweat perspiration, and also has a certain windbreak function. It is carried out on the stoke round screen coating machine (the round screen printing machine is not suitable for this process, which is easy to be printed through and uneven). This scheme can achieve the effect similar to the adhesion of PTFE film, and has great advantages in production cost, durability and quality stability. This kind of fabric is suitable for low intensity sports, and is mostly used for fashion and leisure sports clothing, with the majority of spring and autumn clothing.
Fabric processed by 3XDRY Technology
In addition, the use of net coating technology can also use positive and negative printing different color active colors to achieve double-sided double color effect, suitable for trousers and jacket fabrics.
Five
Complex biological enzyme short flow pretreatment technology
The traditional cotton fabrics are desizing by using amylase or caustic soda / hydrogen peroxide. The slurry is removed by continuous or cold stacking. The disadvantage is that compatibility exists. Amylase only decomposes starch and has no effect on PVA. The caustic soda / hydrogen peroxide cold reactor has a certain removal effect on PVA, but it can not go to starch paste, nor is it suitable for multi fiber products. In addition, there are also problems such as difficult treatment of wastewater, hard handle and easy to strip flowers.
The compound biological enzyme pretreatment process is to use amylase, catalase, pectinase, hydrogen peroxide and nonionic emulsifier to directly and after the singeing, and then heat insulation piles for more than 12h. After that, the thin cloth is directly bleached, and the thick cloth is directly boiled and bleached. The mechanism is shown below.
Mechanism of complex enzyme pretreatment
The advantages of compound biological enzyme pretreatment are as follows:
(1) fiber is widely adaptable and practical production control is simple.
(2) the slurry removal rate is high, and PVA degradation can be achieved.
(3) the advantage of application in high elastic and abrasive fabrics is very obvious.
(4) the advantages of energy conservation, emission reduction and consumption reduction are obvious.
(5) sewerage separation can be achieved, which is conducive to resource utilization.
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