How Many Of The Designers Of Domestic Clothing Can Get Their Hands Off?

In recent years,

But the market is stagnant and there is no mature mode of development.

3 years ago, the buyer shop was basically a blank in China. After two years in Beijing, Shanghai and other first tier cities, the buyer's shop now has about 200 homes in the country, but in the eyes of the industry, there are no more than 20 buyers in the real sense.

Guan Jian

In Jingan Temple, one of the most prosperous business circles in Shanghai, there is a wedge shaped avant-garde building, 10corsocomo, which is hidden in tall buildings. There are usually fewer customers. Most of the furnishings are clothes, household products, jewelry and other products from foreign designers.

It's about 4 kilometers away from the tide shop. There's a more familiar domestic Crawford on the middle of Huaihai Road.

In nature, these two stores are the epitome of a buyer's shop. One was born in Milan, Italy, and one started in Hongkong.

"Buying clothes abroad is basically a shopping mall. There is recognition and loyalty to some designers. The consumption in China is still at the stage of recognition."

In a Sino Dutch fashion dialogue held last week by the Holland consulate, Huang Jie, founder of FounderofMOCC, the designer's incubator platform, told reporters.

It seems that overnight, the electronic business platform has unfolded the tide card mode. It has done fashion show, sign designer, and design incubator. When the electronic business platform no longer rely solely on the flow bonus, it has sought fashion and customization pformation, and it has just brought a glimmer of light to the domestic struggling designers.

Thanks to the consumer's need for personalization and customization, Taobao Tmall, suning.com, vip.com and other e-commerce platforms are trying to pform in the direction of C2B, providing channels and market resources for their own brands and designers and other craftsmen.

Business and design are changing at a commercial level.

The so-called "buy shop" originated in Europe, mostly in the form of street shops. Shopkeepers are equivalent to a buyer and opinion leader who accurately controls the trend of the market, bringing different designers' fashions, accessories, handbags, shoes and other works into a shop to meet the demands of fashion and individuation.

Shopping shop is the mainstream shopping mode of the middle class in Europe and the United States. It is the embodiment of self class identity.

Overseas, these buyer shops have become hotbeds for designers.

Buyers or designers purchase works, display them in the store, or let designers put their works in the store for consignment.

No matter which kind of business mode, it is a "bottom" place for designers. As long as the works are bought by buyers, even a fixed supply relationship is formed, designers will not worry about selling, and do not have to bear the cost of entering shops and inventory.

Famous designer, executive director of the China Fashion Designers Association, and Chen Wen, the winner of the 2015 Golden Summit Award, recently told the first Financial Daily reporters that because European industry chain is mature, designers in Europe can concentrate more on their own design links, and do not have to be too distracted with financing, markets, channels, etc. but by contrast, domestic designers bear too many channels, marketing, capital and other non design burdens, and there are too many things to be developed by themselves.

The importance of design elements for the electricity supplier has opened up another way for designers, but at present, the road is still hard to walk.

"At present, no domestic fashion designer can be regarded as a thrive."

Huang Jie told our reporter that because of the lack of buyer mode, the situation of domestic designers is not so good.

A fashion designer from the beginning of the idea to the last contact with the market, in the middle of the design, fabric selection, printing (the design sketch into the stereoscopic format of the model), production, branding (branding), channels and a series of steps, which link is not easy.

For example, because of the small sales volume, many designers can not afford the format price, and can not get good fabrics, so they can not find mass production in factories.

Now the usual pattern is that big designers look for small factories to produce, and small designers make their own workshops. "We say studio or workshop, you can understand that there are four or five tailors who can make clothes."

Huang Jie said.

For most Chinese designers, the most difficult part of the above production chain is the channel.

After many years of learning from abroad, the ideal of design is shattered in the face of the reality of the domestic market. A common perplexity is repeatedly harassing them: "who on earth buys the clothes I designed?"

Combining path differentiation

Last week, Suning held a fashion show in Shanghai. This is the first time that Suning, a retailer, has announced its business in this way.

Prior to this, vip.com, Jingdong and other electricity providers have also held T show, Tmall last September, put the show in the Asian fashion Seoul, South Korea held a Hanfeng fashion week, with a view to more Korean clothing and cosmetics brands through cross-border e-commerce channels to enter the Chinese market.

Behind the bustling show, it is the horse drawn enclosure for designers of different businesses.

Suning is now planning to set up a designer incubator to support independent designers. As early as October 2014, Dangdang, one of the main businesses of the company, has established a designer platform with the Chinese Costume Designers Association as early as October 2014. Dangdang CEO Li Guoqing then called on the platform to invest 1 hundred million of the platform to help designers find sales channels for their works.

Earlier, in 2011, fan Ke Cheng, who stirred up media nerves with "all objects", introduced a large number of designer elements into his T-shirts and other products.

Added

Choosing to open a shop on Taobao to find a way out for its own works, which also set the pulse of the electronic business platform and consumers.

On the one hand, an important direction of Taobao's pformation in 2016 is to create more brands, such as more designers, net red, two generations of farmers, geeks and so on, through Taobao content consumption.

On the other hand, consumers are showing more and more interest in designer elements.

Chen Wen, who owns his own brand, told the first Financial Daily reporters that some fans suggested that he put his usual design manuscript on the website shopping page or social media.

However, it is not easy to make a big difference on the business platform. Designers first need to adapt to the rules of the electricity supplier.

Chen Wenceng tried to sell his works in an integrated store in Hangzhou through the official website, but because of traffic and physical experience, he did not earn money by that.

In his view, the importance of electronic commerce to design resources is a good thing, providing a new channel for the domestic designers to contact the market, but at present, the difficulty is relatively large.

In order to let designers get more exposure and channels from their brands, Taobao has developed UGC and PGC platforms, including Taobao headlines, communities, shopping, good goods, daring people, Tao Tao and so on, focusing on commodity recommendation and sharing, combining with Youku, micro-blog and other media matrix, and trying to make sellers and factories directly butt joint.

Huang Jie told our reporter that the price of contemporary mainstream designer works is usually 1000~3000 yuan in spring and summer, and 2000~6000 yuan in autumn and winter.

These designer works will first encounter pricing problems on the electronic business platform. In her view, the price is hard to detonate sales on the Internet, and those works within 800 yuan are more suitable for the business channel.

Suning chose to play the role of incubator in this regard.

In March 20th, Su Ningyun, vice president of marketing department of the 002024 business unit, Guo Dongdong told reporters in the first financial daily that Suning plans to select excellent designer manuscripts by holding some competitions. During the process, C2B will be told to the designer through big data. After the design is out, Suning will contact the third party factories and the middle part of the edition room, and then cooperate with the brand dealers so that the brand can afford to buy the copyright of the designer.

At the same time, suning.com and offline stores provide display and sales channels.

In this mode, designers do not have to open their own stores. Their way of profit is to sell design copyrights and sell them with brands. Designers are more concentrated in the upper and middle reaches of the industrial chain. This is easier than designing and operating and marketing alone in Taobao stores, but Taobao has the advantage of opening up its own brand.

Taobao and suning.com, a C (platform mode), and a B (business mode), provide designers with the two way out.

Which path in the future will provide a broader stage for domestic designers and provide consumers with more and better choices remains to be tested by the market.