What Are The Reasons For Designer Turnover In Fashion Industry?

Peter Dundas

Peter Dundas has been appointed creative director in Roberto Cavalli for 19 months, but has recently announced her resignation.

Then, the new chief executive, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, formally announced the launch of a comprehensive restructuring plan for Roberto Cavalli.

In 2015, the performance of Roberto Cavalli was not ideal, and its core profit was a loss. At present, there are 182 shops in the world, of which only 43 are independent stores.

Some analysts predict that

The fastest way to achieve profitability is in 2018.

For Norway

Peter Dundas, this is the second time he has left the Roberto Cavalli.

From 2002 to 2005, he was the chief designer of Roberto Cavalli.

Its two series of recent designs (2016 autumn winter series and 2017 spring summer series) have been well received by the media and buyers.

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What are the reasons behind the designer's resignation in recent years?

Reason 1: neither applause nor applause.

The biggest reason for designers to leave is because design creativity can not bring predictable profits to the brand.

Frida Giannini was temporarily dismissed under the premise of preparing 2015 men's clothing series in autumn and winter.

It is obvious that the top executives of Kai Yun group have been unable to bear. The declining performance of Gucci for several consecutive quarters of 50% of the group's performance has caused a great deal of trouble to the group, which is mainly due to the lack of Giannini's breakthrough in design.

Whether it is a senior garment that is mainly used for image promotion, or a real profit producing accessories series, Gucci can not identify itself with media, buyers and consumers.

Wang Daren (Alexander Wang) left the Balenciaga almost the same reason - though partly because Wang Daren had to devote more effort to the operation of the same brand and had to give up.

Moreover, the sales of Yves Saint Laurent of the same group, led by the then creative director Hedi Slimane, rose sharply. This cruel reality competition made Balenciaga eager to find someone with a topic, a unique design language and a business minded person to turn the famous fashion house, which is bigger than sales, into an ideal Qian Shu.

So after we saw Wang Daren, the hot fashion golden boy Demna Gvasalia took over the post of Balenciaga creative director.

Reason two: applause is not welcome.

However, for large fashion houses, only good ideas are far from enough, and sales can be turned into real revenue.

Before Wang Da Ren, Balenciaga's last creative director, Nicolas Ghesqui re, chose to leave the brand in 2013. It is said that it is because the design is so popular that the board of directors asks the designer to further commercialize the product design.

Fortunately, Ghesqui re has found a new position in Louis Vuitton every other year, but in the fashion industry, there are still many talented talents, and the most famous one is Olivier Theyskens.

The Belgian designer has worked for Rochas, Nina Ricci, and even Theory on the light luxury route, but it was forced to leave because of her lack of design.

Now Theyskens has returned to Paris and has not continued to work, but has launched its own brand name dress.

Stefano Pilati leaves Ermenegildo Zegna, too. According to WWD's report, Stefano Pilati's near custom-made design mode is out of line with Ermenegildo Zegna brand core consumer group. This product line design, known as "Ermenegildo Zegna", is indeed light and dynamic, and it also changes the old problem of old men's clothing house in Italy.

But the old brand customers have never been able to accept these fashionable styles.

Plus the average selling price of the series exceeds 50% of the regular product, which discourages many customers.

Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna said in a deep sense at the beginning of 2016 when Pilati left office. "We want to be a heavyweight player in the fashion circle. Zegna's show in Milan fashion week must be unforgettable.

We achieved this goal earlier than expected. "

But ironically, every three years of the Facchinetti's ready-made clothing series will receive consistent awards in the industry.

According to the Tod s group's earnings report, in the past year and a half, the group's overall revenue has experienced a serious decline, the group's top executives decided to let Tod 's return to their good shoes and bags manufacturing field, reducing the investment in clothing products.

Reason three: corporate restructuring

With changes in retail environment and changes in customer buying habits, some fashion houses will also restructure their businesses after a period of time, sometimes opening up new product lines and sometimes closing down old product lines.

In August 2016, the French fashion brand Carven decided to close the men's wear series and focus more on the development of the women's wear series. Then it announced that the Barnab Hardy, the creative director of brand menswear, will officially leave the partnership from January 2015.

Since it was acquired by Soci t t B ranger in 2008, Carven has been successfully revived under the leadership of art director Guillaume Henry and former CEO Henri Sebaoun.

Henri Sebaoun has positioned it as a modern brand, and Guillaume Henry has indeed succeeded in building the brand into the second tier International Women's clothing brand.

But in the past two years, Carven has encountered bottlenecks in both design and sales.

In May this year, Bluebell group, a luxury fashion brand based in Hongkong, acquired a large stake in the brand, which has a history of more than 70 years.

After experiencing a positive development in the mainland, the brand quietly closed two shops.

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Reason four: internal contradictions are irreconcilable.

The most famous case forced to quit because of internal contradictions is Jil Sander's three in three out.

In 1999, JilSander sold 75% of its brand to Prada group, where he retained the post of creative director and CEO, but suddenly resigned.

In 2003, she returned to the brand. However, only two quarter of the design was left again. It was alleged that there was a serious management and business disagreement between Jil Sander and her husband, Miuccia Prada, the CEO of the group.

Dramatist, in 2012, Jil Sander opted for a brief return, but by the end of 2013, it had finally left the brand completely because of "personal reasons".

As for the contradiction between Lanvin and Alber Elbaz, it happened a year ago in October 2015, so many people's impression is more profound.

The Alber Elbaz resignation was actually in the case of Elbaz still holding a 10% stake in Lanvin.

As a fashion house with a business scale of 250 million euros, the real bottleneck of Lanvin lies in the fact that the size of the garment product line supporting the core business is too small. Moreover, the brand has never had any well-known accessories products. Relying solely on the sale of garments is bound to be unable to keep Lanvin on the scale of its existing business scale.

Seeking international capital injection, or even being bought by luxury consortia, is the only way for Lanvin to become a big international brand.

Alber Elbaz constantly urged Wang Xiaolan to turn Lanvin into more powerful investors, becoming the fundamental contradiction between the two.

Reason five: excessive strength and unbearable load

In addition, Elbaz has worked for Lanvin for 14 years, and the pressure of work is also a major factor to be ignored.

Elbaz has said publicly that today's fashion world is like a marathon. Designers want their brands to develop stronger and faster. If they do not develop, they will be eliminated.

Alber needs to complete 6 conventional release series including men's and women's clothing every year, which does not include any other additional design work.

Overloaded working pressure is also one of the biggest reasons for Raf Simons's abrupt departure after three years in Dior.

Raf Simons has to complete four advanced ready-made garments series and two advanced customization series for Dior every year. Besides, it also needs to take care of its homonymous men's clothing brand.

More importantly, Dior and other famous brand names in high fashion are able to give designers limited space to play in product design. Instead, they need to strictly follow the brand history to continue their incense.

However, the biggest controversy between the two sides is that Raf Simons has put forward higher salary requirements.

This is why designers and brands often sign a three year term rather than a long-term contract. Once a designer increases the sales volume of his brand because of the product he designs, he usually asks the brand to pay more remuneration and reflect it on the salary.

The reason behind all sorts of reasons for leaving is actually that the downturn in the retail industry and the increasingly rapid movement of fashion make consumers more and more happy because of the economic downturn.

Even recently, a number of brands or luxury goods group's earnings report shows that revenue has risen.

But relying on the performance of a region alone can not change the industry's downturn. Business slump means that someone needs to take responsibility, and personnel changes are inevitable.

Chief executive and creative director were among the first to be moved.