Paul Smith'S British Humor: To Carry Out "Weird" In The End
< p > the London Museum of design is a special exhibition for Paul Smith. At the exhibition site, the 67 year old Paul Smith still acts like a child, playing tricks on her staff from time to time.
It is this kind of surprise that makes the Paul Smith's brand of the same name last for the past 50 years.
The London Museum of design didn't want to make this exhibition another "high fashion show".
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< p > "I hope to show more Paul Smith's insistence on her personality and humor, because this is valuable for a commercialized designer."
The curator, Donna Loveday, told reporters.
She named the exhibition "Hello, my name is Paul Smith". This introductory introductory speech is meant to bring people into his head and see where the whims come from.
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< p > Paul Smith how much she loves to be weird? Look at his design.
He will use bright, pink and bold colors in men's suits made of advanced Italy fabrics.
There are more surprises to unbutton.
His usual trick is to sew gorgeous coloured stripes to the edges of the bags, which is also a symbolic element of the Paul Smith brand.
Sometimes in the cuffs or inside of the purse, a naked woman will suddenly appear.
He even dares to "fashion" on the sacred T platform of the fashion world, so that a fashionable male model can be shown in a teddy bear.
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"P >" and his curiosity is as overflowing as his sense of humour.
There were countless attempts in cross-border design, from graphic design to a set of commemorative stamps designed for the London Olympic Games in 2012, so that an employee could not help but ask, when he heard the exhibition message, "can you show the clothes?" < /p >
< p > if 50 years ago, this restless boy had to give up his dream of becoming a cyclist because of an accidental fall, we are afraid to miss this unique designer today.
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< p > 1960s, Paul Smith has just recovered from bicycle accidents, and often meets with her sick friends at a bar frequented by Academy of Fine Arts students.
This group of students talk about Andy Warhol, David Bailey, rolling stones and so on every night, so that Paul Smith is fascinated by it.
From that moment on, he sprouted into the design industry.
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P, the playful and rebellious Moss (Mods), became the source of his inspiration.
Moss is a popular trend initiated by young people in the British working class after World War II.
You can think of it as the British version of the American dream.
This group of young people has some economic ability because of the economic improvement after the war. Although they have very little assets, they believe that the high taste is not related to the richness.
A senior Moss member recalled: "everyone wants to be smart and fashionable, to make himself different from the factory floor and the low rent housing and basement in the suburbs."
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< p > the Moss people are well-dressed wherever they go, especially men.
The classic style is a tailored Italy suit, with a shortened seven cent pair of trousers, which makes it easy for Vespa motorcycles to play cool.
The details of accessories must also be meticulous.
Historian Richard Weight wrote in his new book Mod: A Very British Style: "they ridicule real society, but not cynicism.
Moss's greatest value is to let everyone have the opportunity to pursue fashion interest, which is a democratization.
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< p > the Moss clan evolved from the initial niche trend to the pronoun of the British style, which Paul Smith has contributed.
"Paul Smith can be said to be the first designer to reflect the youth tide in 1960s in clothing. He made the traditional dress look brand new."
Loveday said.
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< p > Paul Smith incorporated the elements of Moss in his little bar into the design.
He started from men's clothing, while maintaining traditional British sewing techniques, and joined the ankle length tapered trousers with a tailored Italy suit, which was also extremely bold.
This style is popular all over the world.
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< p > > My < a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp" > dress design < /a > all come from tradition. But in modern way, it is like changing a cocktail, adding different ingredients to the traditional formula will bring a completely different taste.
I like my clothes to have some mystery. "
Paul Smith concluded himself.
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< p > If anyone asks where his inspiration comes from, he will answer without hesitation: "anywhere".
The photography loving designer always carries cameras with him to record everything he sees during his travels.
The unexpected day tour is his favorite, probably in the morning in the shops in Japan, and in the afternoon he went to Vietnam's village.
Paul Smith launches 28 clothing series every year, inspired by design or from a market in India, or a church in Lithuania.
Paul Smith put more effort into finding these core Creative Inspirations and selecting suitable fabrics and colors to present them.
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< p > in the London Design Museum, the curator turned Paul Smith's head into a maze that could be seen.
In this area called "Inside Paul 's Head", you will see how Paul Smith turned a wild flower he photographed during her travels into a fashion on T stage.
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< p > curators want to connect these ubiquitous inspiration with the design works of Paul Smith so that people can explore it in his world.
This is a three-dimensional space made up of screens. Through the pition of bright red, orange, yellow, blue, green, purple and other colors, Paul's travel photographs are shown, such as how the colorful stones on the river become Paul Smith's garments.
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< p > through this labyrinth connecting inspiration and works, you will see an office that breaks down all the cleaners in the world.
On his messy desk, there was a smart green plucent Macintosh, which was sent to him by his friend, Jonathan Ive, beside countless books, magazines, and the British flag and yellow teapot.
The most wonderful thing is that there is a leftover spaghetti on top of the coat rack beside the desk.
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< p > but Paul Smith will defend herself by Einstein's famous saying: "if a messy table represents a messy thought, then what about an empty table?" < /p >
< p > "I try to show my diverse working life in a room, and the other room rebuilds my crazy office."
He personally participated in the selection of all the exhibits, but he admitted that the most difficult thing was deciding what to delete, which is similar to his "sorting obstacles".
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< p > the studio next to the office shows another look.
This is a huge design museum where designers can find various reference materials for design, including < a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp" > Retro Design > /a > books, colors and yarns, and a huge fabric library, which is lowered from the roof.
Apple computers play restless rock and roll, and all Paul Smith designers are sitting in the same room. This ensures the consistency and consistency of graphics and fabric design, and in this teamwork atmosphere, it is easier to inspire creative inspiration.
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< p > perhaps his database is so messy that it took Loveday 14 months to sort out everything about Paul Smith, and the whole process was pleasantly surprised.
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< p > once, she accidentally discovered an old leaflet with Paul Smith and an Afghan hound.
His first store was just opened in Nottingham - only 3 square meters of compartments, and even no windows.
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< p > to save money, the store only opens on Friday and Saturday, but even so, Paul Smith still needs to go around doing odd jobs to maintain its operation.
In such a state of embarrassment, Paul Smith still does not forget humor: he appointed his pet, an Afghan Hound as a store manager, who is responsible for greeting guests at the door.
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< p > and even now Paul Smith has opened the store to all parts of the world. His office manager is still a Brown Plush Monkey.
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< p > the details of the first shop were restored to the design exhibition as much as possible.
"I think I have to put this detail in this exhibition.
At the beginning of brand building, Paul Smith was positioned on the mixture of orthodox British men's clothing and Mr. Bean.
Loveday said.
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< p > > a href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp" > Paul Smith < /a > will design every newly opened shop from now on, because he hates stereotyped rules and wants to make every shop unique.
Whether it is the bright pink building on Melrose Avenue in Losangeles, or the Japanese style courtyard in the central store of Tokyo god palace, it reflects the characteristics of every city.
In the exhibition, there is a wall made of 70 thousand colored buttons. The interior of Paul Smith's new shop on Albemarle street in London is shown on the screen.
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< p > "I like something with individuality. We will design every shop by ourselves. I hope every shop has its own flavor."
Paul Smith said.
He will also create surprises inside the shop.
In 1976, the Covent Garden store opened in London, which was one of the few minimalist shops in Europe.
In addition to selling clothes, the shop can also see the pink Dyson vacuum cleaner and the Braun calculator designed by Dieter Rams.
Today, Paul Smith's shop is also like a grocery store. In addition to tailored clothes, antique books or contemporary artworks, people can still get unforgettable experience even if they don't buy anything.
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< p > now, Paul Smith has 300 stores in 66 countries.
He has reentered China, a market that once defeated him.
It is very difficult to maintain a sense of humor in the rhythm of business expansion. The company's operation team must find ways to not let Paul Smith humor and stripes become formalistic. As for the designer himself, it is clear that he is not suited to those business meetings brought about by scale expansion.
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< p > at every meeting, Paul Smith will bring a small manipulator. As long as the switch is turned on, the manipulator will knock fingers on the table, which means "I am bored now."
When he worked in Japan in the early years, the auxiliary tool was a rubber chicken. If the meeting was too long, he would take the rubber chicken and wave it out, and sometimes he would take out a toy train.
The first time everyone felt offended, but then everyone would ask, "Paurosan, where is your toy train?" < /p >
< p > Loveday does not think that Paul Smith belongs to the designer who will lose individuality in commercialization, though no one can tell whether those who enter the shop really appreciate the brand concept of "singing the opposite tone" or just to consume the well-known stripes. Anyway, people can feel all these things in the exhibition.
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