KENZO'S Splendid Era In 40 Years (Chart)

Borrow Hongkong

An exclusive interview with the business week

Such opportunities have not been seen much in recent years.

The journey marks a lifetime.

In the KENZO little resume written by biography writer Tamae Armand-Ejima in the book Kenzo, he shared with us some stories of Gao Tian's early years. One of them was: "after graduating from University, he (Gao Tian) entered a famous school.

The manufacturer is working, and his designs are beginning to appear in many.

Li.

He moved out of the small room with only 5 square meters and moved to a 30 square meter apartment in western style.

But he did not live in the new house for long. The apartment would soon be rebuilt. The developer gave him a compensation to move him out of the apartment.

Bravo! Now he has arrived.

The funds left.

He had a chance to see the European world he had always dreamed of.

Such a story happened before the new year's day in 1965. Perhaps many people do not remember that KENZO actually launched it.

The history before career.

About the fact that he bought a two class ship ticket, it took a month to travel from Japan to Marseilles. The story has become legendary and unreal, but it is so far away from memory that it has seen KENZO for more than 40 years.

The beginning of his career is precisely because of the sea voyage that has lasted for a month and has stopped at numerous ports, so that he can personally recognize different nationalities and cultures. What he saw and heard about the culture, characters and traditions, eventually brought about the Kenzo style that all those who know Gao Tian can not forget, with the national sense as the symbol.

5 years after this story happened, in 1970, a "countr y bumpkin" was introduced.

On the cover of "Elle" magazine, it is one of the series displayed by Gao Tian in its boutique, designed and printed in Japanese kimono printed fabric, but not entirely Japanese style, at that time.

The media described it as "casual and easy to resonate", not so serious and serious as traditional kimono.

He fused two to three different kimono prints to a dress and shocked the French fashion circle, and the Japanese style of printing also brought a cultural shock. When Gao Tian spent much effort in school, he finally realized the true value of the painting method. A fresh Oriental wind blows into the western fashion society. It is a time when the east wind hasn't really been blown up. Today, Catherine Rousso of French Ella recalls: "seeing that he mixed the profile and tone together so smart and poetic, we feel that his fashion is what Paris lacks."

This cover work is considered to be a symbolic starting point for the career of Gao Tian.

One seat

The evolution of big houses

When this Japanese boy is in

After opening his first store, "Jungle Jap", from 1970 to 1975, he challenged Paris city again and again.

The ability to accept.

1971~1972's autumn and winter series, which he calls "anti fashion", are completely overturned by the fashion industry in Paris.

In the spring and summer series of 1972, the flower and bird fish of Gao Tian made the stage of the commercial fashion show enjoyable.

In the autumn and winter series of 1973~1974, Gao Tian from Japan threw away the Japanese tradition.

The influence shifted to traditional costumes in Romania, which surprised people who always thought he could only grow on the basis of Japanese culture, but at the same time retained the national customs of Kenzo design.

The spring and summer series in 1975 was the beginning of the successful start of the field. More traditional forms influenced the design of modern sense. Chinese style printing was also added to his design.

The combination became one of the main images of the autumn and winter series in 1975.

Since then, the style of Kenzo has been more and more extensive. From the works of Italy painter Botticelli to the Nehru style of India, it has become a new series of inspiration.

The inspiration, the complex printing and the outline are unified under the inspiration of these East and West inspiration, and the personal method of KENZO.

No one would think that these series are apart from each other, they all carry the same designer's personal symbols.

In 1980s, KENZO was a young man.

To the maturity of a brand owner, his

It also extended to men's wear in the year 1983.

As one of the leaders of fashion trend in 1980s, more contemporary lines began to appear in the design of Kenzo, suggesting that the male design of women entering the society like men should occur frequently in the series from 1982 to 1984. In 1982 and autumn winter series, the image of female officer with a rifle, but the muzzle of flowers was deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. All kinds of lattice suits not only attract people's attention with the mix and match pattern, but also make the image of women in 1980s clear, and the national style seems to be hidden behind the scenes for 10 years.

In 2004, 20 years later, the autumn and winter series designed by Antonio Mar Ras reappeared the familiar shapes and lattice fabrics, adding more ethnic flavor, such as the bright print lining under the Ge suit.

This can be regarded as a tribute and return.

Kenzo in 1990s

The fashion industry is not very heavy on ink. He put it in 1980s.

Mature, also accumulated some loyal supporters, and captured a number of foreign customs.

Fans, it is a watershed like "love or not love". If there is not too much earth shaking adjustment, this group of supporters will not cross the watershed.

Kenzo has also evolved from a fashion brand to perfume and skincare products. Since 1993, Kenzo has become a part of the LVMH group.

But before the end of this stable 1990s, there was news of KENZO's retirement.

The retirement time.

About KENZO's retirement

To oneself

The assistant lasted 4 years, and in 2003, Antonio Mar Ras took over as the creative director, so far, which involved a complex history of fashion circles.

This period of history is a sensitive area which is not easy to touch today. I believe that in another 10 years.

In this interview, Gao Tian also implied: "now Kenzo is created by another designer, so I do not want to have too much comment on this."

Although he did not want to express too much emotion, he said something to his successor, Antonio Marras, "I have seen it before."

Antonio Marras3 times, he is a wonderful person, he loves his work very much, and he also works hard to continue my creation. He really continues the spirit of Kenzo brand, and sometimes does well, but sometimes it is a little too backward, too persistent in Kenzo's past expression. "

This is a minefield, and I didn't go too deep to ask this question out of respect for Mr. Takada.

The persistence of creators is not difficult to understand.

During that period of retirement, Gao Tian lived in Monaco's home. This family has been floating in the eyes of more people in recent years. The taste of life is very popular with people. The collection of natural resources in Gao Tian's home is naturally the most attractive focus. Especially when he moved to and sold a large number of collectibles last year, people could not help wondering whether KENZO turned from a designer to an artist or an art collector.

"The fact is that I live in Monaco and draw lots of paintings there. I did an exhibition, but I am not sure whether it can be called" art ", because I should not judge my painting or my artistic creation, so I myself would like to know if it can be called a work of art.

It's really hard to figure out the theme of painting, but as time goes on, I feel that painting is a very pleasant thing for me, but I still dare not call myself an artist.

"In fact, I sold the house for 20 years, because it was too large for a person to live in," he said. "I have been making full use of it and enjoying it. There are lots of my collection, many antiques and artworks. When I want to sell the house, I have to rearrange my collection, so I will hold the auction.

I have always had great enthusiasm for collecting antiques. I will go to Paris's antique shops on weekends. "

In his home where he lived for 20 years, he has accumulated a lot of details which are full of Oriental customs, such as porcelain, such as the teahouse layout in Japan. It is not easy to give up such a long collection. Gao Tian shares a small story with me: "I once asked a Feng Shui master to go to my house in Paris. When he saw my house and so many collectibles, he said it was not good for geomantic omen, and I should find another place to store my collection."

The philosophy of the Orient has influenced Gao Tian, and he can feel it from this little story as a joke.

Can moving house be interpreted as a sign of action for a new future? The recent action of Gao Tian seems to support this speculation - he is pushing for a brand new brand: KT design by Kenzo Takada.

"My biggest dream is to have another wonderful love affair."

Although Gao Tian's appearance does not look like a more than 70 year old man, no one can escape the impact of age.

As a designer who has been active in recent years, young minds and open world outlook are indispensable, so when he answers what his biggest dream is now, you will immediately feel that he is still very young because his answer is "my biggest dream is to have another wonderful love affair".

Perhaps, love with new era is also a kind of love. At the age of more than 70, Tatian is still eager to communicate with the younger generation. He even expressed his willingness to apply Twi t ter and other new media and new technologies to his fashion business.

"Many of my projects are closely cooperating with young designers. I should also be more concerned about the younger generation and share my thoughts with them. I should encourage cooperation with the younger generation.

The younger generation and the potential designers are different from the previous designers, that is, they can use the Internet to cooperate. I think they can find more possibilities from them. If they use the possibility and new technology of the Internet to enter the fashion business, I think that will make the whole fashion industry more interesting. I think the cross media fashion industry is more interesting and fun.

Takada said.

He also said he wanted to try iPad, which surprised us.

Introspection on the past gave him a clearer look at the future, and the expectation of the future also made the designer with a historical foundation still glow with new life at the age of 70.

KT design by Kenzo Takada

KT design by Kenzo Takada is composed of smart little items. At present, we can see printed silk scarves and men's leather shoes series.

The former is the vivid expression of the high field logo printing, the blooming flowers on scarves, the latter is the abstract expression of flower patterns, the bright colors become the sole or inside of the classic men's leather shoes, or become the hollows on the vamp in an abstract way, adding lively elements to the traditional men's shoes.

These designs do not have a clear seasonal distinction. Scarves can be found in shops in Paris, and shoes series will also be released this spring and summer.