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Global Turbulence, Where Will The 2019 Fashion Industry Go?

2019/1/16 0:01:00 34

Fashion Industry

It was thought that the new global financial crisis did not happen in 2018, and the fashion industry could develop steadily and steadily.

But in the past year, the global situation is obvious, the Sino US trade war, the United Kingdom off Europe, the Italy debt crisis, the French yellow vest campaign, and the German political turmoil.

The original harmonious global pattern is blocked by the high walls of nationalism, and social media has completely butted up our food, clothing and housing. In this way, the fashion industry is destined to enter a new stage of development.

Looking back, many people have been remembrance of 1980s and 1990s. At that time, the fashion designers represented by Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Tom Ford were competing with each other on the T stage with their talent works. Their identity was shining like a giant star.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, the cold war came to an end. From then on, the free trade led by the United States attacked all over the world. When China joined the WTO in 2001 years, the global pattern of free trade integration gradually improved.

With the rapid development of mass media, especially since the Internet began to spread around the world after the millennium, fashion brands rapidly expand their popularity worldwide with the help of capital and technology.

From then on, fashion became the common topic of the world.

In 2008, the global financial crisis and the trend of globalization entered the turning point. After that, the emerging market countries headed by China became the growth highland of the fashion industry.

Ten years later, when the time comes to 2019, in the era of post globalization, which is being coerced by nationalism and social media, where will the fashion industry go?

  

01 consumer landscape

What kind of common features do they have in the past few years, the fashionable brands and designers who burst red from Vetements to Gucci to Virgil Abloh?

The elements that appear in their costumes are basically borrowed / misappropriated, and creators and wearers do not need any unique declaration and posture to make themselves very individual, because those familiar elements are interpreted as new self righteous times.

As to whether that meaning is vulgar or cool, it is not important, because the reinterpreted behavior is the meaning itself.

As a result, more and more brands have embarked on this road: by borrowing and appropriating a set of familiar elements, shaping a rationalized contemporary concept, interpreting a pleasant image, and finally harvesting a happy consumer landscape.

This logic is not new, but in recent years, more and more people give people a sense of borrowing / embezzlement.

To some extent, this is the result of consumption.

As we all know, fashion consumption is driven by fashion trends.

In the past, a genius designer's creativity can lead to a wave of fashion through the division and collaboration of the industry system.

Nowadays, the social media that everyone participates in makes traffic a leading factor in the fashion trend.

Therefore, it is very inappropriate to advocate innovation. The only difference is the level of borrowing / appropriation.

The actual case is just around the corner.

In December 5, 2018, Chanel held the 2019 early autumn fashion show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, USA. At the temple of Dan dowager, the old Buddha Karl Lagerfeld borrowed the ancient Egyptian legacy to create the classic image of Chanel.

Chanel is still the Chanel, and the heavy legacy of ancient Egypt is just a foil. This is the borrowing / misappropriation height that any future designer can't borrow. No wonder that Karl Lagerfeld is very proud to be interviewed by New York magazine after the show. He said that in recent years, fashion designers have revived old brands, some of which are not good, but he is lucky, and the boss has always asked him to do what he wants to do.

If we look back at the Chanel fashion show in the past, we can see the profound insight of his age. He will feed people's Thoughts on the times to the show and internalize it into the brand image.

No one can be as skillful as Lord Buddha, and a more direct and effective way is to borrow or misuse a cultural symbol with a wide range of cognition.

In November 27, 2018, Dior Men held the 2019 early autumn show in Tokyo, Japan. The designer Kim Jones commissioned the Japanese art master (Kim Sorayama) to build a huge metal robot sculpture in the center of the T platform. All kinds of metallized clothes and cherry blossoms on the show were giving people a familiar look.

As early as in 2003, Louis Vuitton, led by Marc Jacobs, cooperated with Japanese art master Murakami Takashi to combine the classic cartoon characters created by artists with the cherry blossom pattern and the embossed letters of LV, and applied to handbags, so that all sides could get favorable comments.

15 years later, Kim Jones was pferred from Louis Vuitton to Dior Men by LVMH group, almost the same old technology.

The hyper realism romanticism of Japanese pop culture has been a common memory of generations from all over the world since 1980s.

Kim Jones, which was born in 1979, grew up in the 1980-1990 era. It is the time when Japanese design and Japanese culture swept the globe. It is not difficult to explain that he can introduce it into the new modeling of Dior Men so skillfully that it can be turned into real consumption.

This logic is also applicable to new Celine and new Burberry.

Hedi Slimane's new Celine first season's work is seen as the reinvention of his works before Dior Homme and YSL.

The new Burberry led by Riccardo Tisci has chosen to cooperate with Vivian Westwood, which has also aroused people's memory of the iconic punk spirit.

Putting it on Calvin Klein and Raf Simons also works.

The new American dream constructed by Raf Simons for Calvin Klein can be traced back to the gold rush of the western United States in the middle of nineteenth Century. Combined with the works of some minority artists, it is obviously too far fetched to make the masses feel empathy.

Moreover, the status of the United States as a world parent is already precarious, which is not enough to support the effective output of the American dream on a global scale.

Therefore, in the face of strong European brands, the same price of clothing, natural wheel less than Calvin Klein was consumed, eventually the two sides broke up at the end of last year.

There is also a Prada that doesn't take the unusual path. The way of borrowing and embezzlement of Miu's aunt Miuccia Prada is more complex. She internalized the interdisciplinary language of art, architecture, film and literature into a brand gene and built a strong brand culture magnetic field.

It is not hard to see that fashion brands borrow or embezzle some symbols with common memory. Through the holding of vigorous promotional activities, such as fashion shows, art exhibitions, or the launching of cross-border joint name series and capsule series, the purpose is to maintain their high price labels while allowing their own image to have a broad public cultural attribute like Disney and Coca-Cola, and ultimately attract more people to join the consumption force.

Speaking of this, looking back to the Chinese local fashion brands, it is easy to see that the 2018 year old brands such as Peacebird, Lining and so on, have just come to the conclusion that they have come to see or mistake and join and shape the consumption landscape in the post globalization era.

  

02 value update

In 2018, there were two big rumors in the fashion industry. One was Karl Lagerfeld, who had been retired from Chanel for countless times. The two is that the American version of VOGUE editor Anna Wintour has been passed away many times.

Although the brands they both played were rumours, the reason why the public paid attention to them was not to see the crowd watching the fun, but the alliance of the fate of the fashion brands and fashion magazines. If there were two soul figures missing, would there be any need for them?

Over the past decades, Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour have gathered the most talented and commercial resources in the fashion industry. They are the general existence of spiritual leaders and mascots in the business world. Every move has long been involved in the industry.

Social media has broken the original value system. Now it is the trend of flow data affecting the fashion industry. Authority has become meaningless and data has become the authority of the new era.

As a result, the fate community relationship between fashion brands and fashion media has reached a more pragmatic stage of value recognition.

Looking at the bigger dimensions, in the post globalisation era, fashion brands who have been in the global context of duplicating and pasting propaganda are facing a more pragmatic attitude towards value recognition in the face of the rising nationalism in various regional markets.

As for the Chinese market, from the special ambassador to the wholesale ambassador, after the precipitation of time, the volume of the 2018 flow has come to an end. The fashion brands in Europe and the United States urgently need to find out a unique system of Chinese local value identification in 2019 years, not just regard China as a simple consumer market.

It * s obvious that the Spring Festival in 2019 is a major exam, and all kinds of pig products and related promotional activities have been out of the street, and we can see the brand's intentions for the Chinese market.

Recently, Burberry 2019 China's new year's Spring Festival advertising blockbuster has been debated, causing many contradictions of value to emerge.

Zhao Wei and Dongyu Zhou are invited to take part in the two movie stars. Burberry can not ignore the Chinese market. But the image of the two people in the blockbuster is seriously distorted. Another family photo taking is not only gloomy and unacceptable, but also a puzzling family member relationship.

In theory, how to make films and how to deal with them in the later stage, the brand has its own intention, no matter what others point to, perhaps it has foreseen various negative evaluations beforehand.

And the response that the melon crowd could not bear was naturally ignored before. Now it has become a hot topic of public debate, and the situation has become more complicated.

To put it simply, this is different from the aesthetic differences and cognition of the two sides. In the complex point of view, although the negative topic has flow and attention, it will also affect the brand image and sales of single products, how to choose and test the mind.

On the other hand, value recognition is also reflected in universal values.

For now, the biggest problem in the fashion industry is overcapacity: after nearly 8% 3/5 of the world's clothing is produced, it will enter incinerators or landfills within a year. More than 8% of the world's greenhouse gas emissions come from the clothing and footwear industries; around 20% to 25% of the world's chemical compounds are used in the textile industry.

Therefore, a new round of value renewal is needed between fashion and environmental protection and humanitarianism.

In the past few years, in order to attract young people -- the attention of the global fashion consumer force at the moment, a number of brands have announced the abandoning of natural fur, which is the value driven upgrading of the fashion industry from the inside.

For example, Chanel announced the abandoning of natural fur last year, and the 2019 - year autumn fashion series released later is the biggest one.

The effects of crocodiles and pythons in some fashion shows are made of artificial leather and even scale flashing.

It can be seen that value renewal is no longer an affectation, but rather a half false practical action, which is related to every detail of fashion consumption.

 

03 data Nuggets

From the consumer side, the fashion brand finds out the customers' consumption psychology and value orientation. Is it possible to go all the way and walk on their legs? Of course not.

For example, the economic data is closely related to the pricing strategy and location of the fashion brand.

Prada group boss Patrizio Bertelli has publicly stated that the Asian financial turmoil in 1998 caused its companies to lose 1/3 revenue in Asia, but the Japanese market's earnings just offset.

Because Japan, as a developed country, used to like to travel abroad for consumption. After the recession, the number of people traveling abroad decreased and consumption stayed in the country.

This consumption logic based on economic data has been staged in many regional markets. One of the references is that VOGUE magazine chooses to launch a new publication in a country or region.

The electricity supplier is also an excellent window.

In 2018, the attitude of the major brands to the electricity supplier has been greatly improved, queuing up in Tmall, building more and more fashion brands, Chanel has become a well-known fashion business platform Farfetch, and Kai Yun group has announced that it will build a self operated electricity supplier before 2020.

From a traditional retail perspective, this is a new channel battle for fashion brands in the Internet field.

From a technical point of view, this is the beginning of a new round of data warfare.

Because there is a fact in front of us, everyone is making a big deal about retailing. Who controls the business line is long enough, and the winner will be bigger in the future.

Social media, electricity providers and mobile payments have revolutionized retail related pactions, pportation, communication, payment and other links, and based on data interaction, mutual optimization, and even affect the most critical design and creative links.

To sum up simply, the fashion industry, which has been driven by products, will gradually be converted to data driven.

This is actually a concept of the industrial Internet. For the traditional fashion industry, it takes a long time to go through every link through network means and data mining.

But there is no doubt that the data are new oil and new gold mines. Whoever can take the lead can win in the future.


Source: blank magazine Author: PiPiJuiCe

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