Chen Xuzhi, Who Made Her Debut In Women'S Clothing, Is Going To Be A Man'S Wear.

According to Chen Xuzhi's classmate and roommate and designer friend Chen Anqi, when he first entered Saint Martin, he would wear a full suit in the years, and he would be a handsome guy in the night club.

But for the past year, he has seen the most comfortable clothes, and his clothes must be chosen on important occasions.

For example, a week ago, he was in London.

When they released the latest XU ZHI series, they wore a self designed navy blue jacket.

"Hey! It's great! Thank you for coming!" Chen Xuzhi discovered that the fashionable blogger, who had just entered the door, gave her a hug immediately after Susie Bubble, and then led her to the model to introduce the highlights of the season.

Not far away, two public relations teams in China and the United Kingdom take care of the guests with the best sense of rhythm, and whisper to the designer, "this is the head of a well-known Korean buyer shop" or "the Japanese fashion editor over there wants to know you."

"

"The team has professional public relations docking media, I mainly follow.

And after-sale. "

Chen Xuzhi's schedule shows that in the next month, he will have to take 4 cities: London, Milan, Paris and Shanghai to complete the 2017 spring and summer women's clothing series's release, display and order.

It's hard to believe that a new designer who has graduated for 15 months has released 4 series of women's wear in succession. She has been awarded the LVMH and Woolmark designers' Grand Prix, and has sold clothes to Dover Street Market, lac Crawford, pillars, Opening Ceremony and so on.

Of course, he doesn't have the popularity of Guo Pei, the designer of Rihanna Dragon Robe, but the stars who are interested in new people in the industry have already cast their eyes on him. Italy edition Vogue editor Sara Maino is one of them.

Although the latter failed to correctly read "XU ZHI", it did not "affect" her invitation to Chen Xuzhi to fly to Milan to attend the local fashion show Fashion Hub Market after the London release.

Chen Xuzhi also felt funny when he thought of the pronunciation of Sara Maino.

"Preface" is the name of his grandfather after drinking, which is a typical Shanghai intellectual. However, Chen now only listens to it, but rarely speaks Shanghai dialect.

When he grew up in Shenzhen, he applied for the final year of high school and applied for the ladies' wear major in central London Saint Martin School of art.

It has to be said that the urgency and momentum of young designers can be seen on him. From the beginning of the first half semester, he has been an intern of J.W.Anderson and Craig Green of London menswear brand, so that she can not get used to the slow pace of campus life at an instant, and prepare her own brand of the same name as early as possible.

For a long time before graduation, Chen Xuzhi was busy developing yarn knitted fabrics: countless yarns were woven into a twist shape and were carefully woven out of different effects.

One of his graduation designs is like an ocean current geological map overlooking.

The ends of the thread naturally disperse, with a sense of unfinished accomplishment and a hint of mystery to the outsiders.

Chen Xuzhi's own woven fabric, like the brand logo, will appear in every subsequent series of women's wear. It will naturally include the 2016 autumn and winter series that took Paris to the LVMH selection contest in March this year.

By the end of the game, Chen Xuzhi returned to the London Fashion Association's showroom in Paris, and designed partner Tjasa to wait for him at the booth.

This tall and thin girl was once an intern of J.W.Anderson. "We tried to adjust the weaving effect after repeated attempts." she supported the buyer when Chen went out to buy coffee or buy rice.

Lane Crawford, 221Restir, Opening Ceremony... Several buyer shops start from the first quarter of XU ZHI, including the pillars.

"Though his clothes are heavy and priced high, they are so special."

In the eyes of Tasha Liu, Chen Xuzhi, a designer, is a very humble person. "This humility is not to put oneself at a low level, but to learn to draw nourishment from others' experience."

She remembered Chen Xuzhi's advice to the Ms Min couple who were also in the LVMH contest for advice on the brand business level. "I learned a lot after that."

"In the past six months, many people have told me that clothes are very heavy."

As the brand continues to market, Chen Xuzhi intends to reduce the number of yarns per share to reduce the weight of clothes.

In the latest season, he adjusted his way of thinking, decided to use the rope as part details and extended the loose ends to tassels to "embody the sense of motion".

He habitually combed his clothes and tassels in showroom and scattered the knitted threads off. "This is the best balance between my design and business.

The scene is much larger than before.

For independent brand designers, it is not easy to meet different needs of different periods and regions.

Especially when global warming causes distortions in the seasons, designers find it difficult to keep up with the pace.

Chen Xuzhi's London showed signs of spring in 4 and May this year, but the spring and summer series was put on the shelves in February. "How can we make Eugen yarn in spring and summer," he said, but the climate he heard from New York was completely another version - winter did not really come until January, and a lot of autumn and winter coats missed the best selling season - Christmas discount season.

"Neiman Marcus buy me advice is not to control how thick and thin clothes, good-looking, comfortable is the most important."

In the season of Chen Xu, there are about 10-15 pairs of skirts, blouses and skirts that span the season, accounting for about 20% of the autumn and winter series. "Now that the season is becoming more and more blurred, we need to provide some light clothes in autumn and winter, and have heavy choices in spring and summer."

In the past few months, the overall image packaging of XU ZHI is also changing.

Through the London public relations briefing, Chen Xuzhi met French production company VLF: "they have done a cool project named under the influence.

We also happen to need a team to be responsible for graphic arts instruction for a long time.

Two teams in London and Paris have redecorated the website by email and face chat. Now all the words on the page are of the same size and font, and the brand logo "XU ZHI" is hidden.

The same is true of Chen's new business card. "It may be a bit of a mess. You don't think it's like a heavy punch on your face. It's convergence and hidden power."

They then finalize the lookbook shooting of the spring and summer series, which is based on the natural state of the studio, model or station, or sitting, and you can even find the designer himself in a photo.

At this point, Chen was not very sure at the beginning, until showroom invited the buyer and the media to give positive feedback.

Tasha discovered from the sales process in the first half of the year that the XU ZHI's customer base and market feedback have changed significantly from the beginning of the luxury clothing brand buyers to the wider crowd.

In the early autumn of the year, the joint capsule series played a key role. "He wants to give a clearer XU ZHI female image through the Pre (early autumn) series, and solve the problems encountered in the main series, such as weight and price," Tasha found that this attempt was quite effective.

Pricing strategy is particularly important. "In the Chinese market, new designers who are willing to make a little concession often get good results."

From April this year, Tasha began to discuss with Chen Shu Zhi to take the capsule series, and released it in the early autumn.

The price of people friendly, plus lightweight fabrics, enables more customers to understand and eventually consume, rather than quietly putting them back to the coat rack after reading.

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In the upcoming fashion week in Shanghai, Chen Xuzhi will cooperate with wool Bureau in addition to the brand display in Lablehood. He used wool very ingeniously, and spliced wool on the gauze, which is in line with the actual demand for wool summer wear.

Now, Chen Xuzhi, who is in the sales link, has begun to look forward to the next season in February.

London, which flows with fresh blood, makes young people grow up in comparison. "For example, when you see the Faustine Steinmetz show, you will think, wow, great, I want to do this too."

However, his working team is still very small, with 4 full-time employees, plus interns and part-time employees.

Coincidentally, the XU ZHI studio is just the first one used by J.W.Anderson; he owns a sewing machine purchased from Craig Green; most of the team comes from J.W.Anderson.

Peng Linjing was a classmate of Chen Xuzhi when he was with Saint Martin. She thought Chen Xuzhi was a clear headed person. He always knew what he was going to do next. When she was graduating, she asked Chen Xuzhi for a lot of notices about the business plan and the actual production situation.

And Chen Xuzhi's next step is to make men's clothing.

"Actually, in every series, I have some neutral style clothes made for myself."

If Chen Xuzhi's dress is inspired by his mother or an intellectual woman, Mousika's men's clothes are made for him and his male friends.

"Since our mood, fabric and team can express in men's clothing, and there is market demand, we should do it separately."

He explained.

"The image of XU ZHI is very feminine, but some jackets are also tailored for male customers."

Tasha believes that the designers who come back from London are very conscious of the image, for example, Chen Anqi is going to find men's models every season for show and film, "they are very conscious to talk to that group."

Objectively speaking, compared with Japan and Europe, China's men's wear is lagging behind for many years because of the less diversified choices.

Over the past one or two years, more and more men's wear designer brands have been attracted to the audience, but basically they are attracting eyeballs.

However, in real life, few men or men will wear J.W.Anderson's men's skirt or Graig Green clothes.

"It is impossible for us to develop into a European and Japanese market from the current poor men's clothing market, but once it is good, it will precipitate and evolve, just like women's clothing."

Tasha is a group of men who buy Women's clothing.

When it comes to the pace of work in the future, Chen Xuzhi still has no definite plan.

Maybe four series a year. If we continue early autumn and early spring, we will have six series.

However, his men's clothing will have to wait until next June. "In February, there must be a change in women's clothing."

Then think about the habits of men's XU ZHI and what they need on occasion.

Anna Wintour's remark reminded him from time to time, "young people slow down and do not rush."