Adrian Joffe: Wakubo Rei's Fashion Goalkeeper

On the last 5 days of July, I.T BEIJING MARKET (ITBM), located in Sanlitun, Beijing, suddenly closed. In the early August, there were three interesting fitting rooms in the newly opened ITBM, which were designed by Wakubo Rei, American artist Scott Hoff (Scott Hove) and German artist Clemens Bell (Clemens Behr) respectively. "We have always been interested in things that are creative, shocking or interesting, so we have been looking for new ideas to study what is popular today so that shops can be interesting." Adrian said.

In order to redecorate ITBM, Wakubo Rei wants to build several interesting fitting rooms in the room. It happened that they saw the works of the two artists in the magazine. "I think they are very suitable," Wakubo Rei told me. I communicated with them and finally led to this cooperation. I think this is a fate. Adrian emphasized the word "fate". In order to decorate, Adrian repeatedly returned to Japan, Paris, Beijing three places, and Wakubo Rei on the day of business, saw three fitting rooms, then quietly left.

Such a superficial phenomenon seems to make people feel that Adrian is behind Wakubo Rei's shadow, following Wakubo Rei's pace. However, all commercial cooperation with COMME des GAR ONS was promoted by Adrian, and the famous Dover Street Market (DSM) was also planned by Adrian. He left Paris's COMME des GAR ONS away from Japanese companies and established a series of profitable businesses such as "SHIRT" and "PARFUMS". "Before the Japanese head office remitted money to Paris company every month, now Paris doesn't need to ask Japan for a cent, I send money to Japan." He was proud of what he said. Adrian loves to run such a large fashion empire and is willing to hide behind Wakubo Rei's design - he creates a balance between COMME des GAR ONS and business and creativity. He said: "create the first place, the second business."

　　 Simple creation

1982 in March 25th, Wakubo Rei's day on the international fashion stage was also the most controversial day. This is the third series that she has launched in Paris. At this Paris fashion week, the Frenchmen, accustomed to the elegant senior garments, were shocked by the holes of sweaters, asymmetrical jacket and faded knee skirts. The harsh French fashion man described Wakubo Rei's design with "Hiroshima original explosive device" and "psychic clothing", and even ridiculed: "this is a new style that was born to show extreme poverty. When you go to the Inland Revenue Department or ask for a raise, you can wear these clothes." On the other hand, the voices of praise are endless. "Many people are aware of this. They first ignored beauty and ugliness, because they found new fashions. Adrian said. Many radical fashion people do not want to see the same clothes every year. They think that fashion should go forward, they should be strong, otherwise there will be no progress. Adrian remembered that some friends said to him after watching the show, "I am not sure I will like it, but at least they are interesting."

COMME des GAR NS NS backstage in the autumn and winter series in 1982, this series is like a bomb, causing two different extreme comments in Paris.

At that time, Adrian had not joined COMME des GAR ONS, nor did he know Wakubo Rei, but he knew this brand in the age of 1970. "Her design was cool at that time." Adrian said. Even more rebellious designs still need all kinds of nutrients, and Wakubo Rei's design comes from Europe in 1970. At that time, the economic downturn, but the rise of the new wave movement and punk culture, and the trend of rebellion against young people came one after another. This trend provided a rich source of creativity for Wakubo Rei's design. Black was not the color of high fashion at that time. Kagawa Kuborei used it without hesitation.

"Wakubo Rei's design is often a response to something. Sometimes, her reaction is to fight against what she sees, or to feel shocked and angry, which will spawn the next series. Adrian is so critical of Wakubo Rei's design. As a westerner, he has never seen Wakubo Rei delineate cultural or racial boundaries. She will not let these things interfere with his work. "From the very beginning, she left behind the preconceptions about customs and culture in eastern and Western societies, because all these things had nothing to do with her work. I firmly believe that her work is at the highest level of creativity. People may call it "pure design". She puts aside all questions about morality, nationality and society. Many times it's just a feeling and a mood. " He still remembered. Wakubo Rei In 2000, he saw a lot of black clothes in GAP store in New York. She was amazed at the combination of fast fashion and black. "She said to me," after 20 years, everything will turn black and Gothic. " In response to this, Wakubo Rei created a series of "collision" in the following year.

　　 Adrian The decision to join the brand is in the 1987 year. When I first arrived in Paris, the company had only a very small house, and there was no staff member. The main tasks were tidying up news reports, promoting the introduction of brand names and linking up with fashion shows. "Coming to Paris is a crucial choice for her. She hopes to stand on the world stage, and now look again, this choice is undoubtedly correct.

Wakubo Rei married Adrian Geoff in Paris in 1992. "She was wearing a white shirt and a black skirt. It was very simple, but I thought it was cool." Her husband recalled.

　　 Never questioned Design

When COMME des GAR ONS stayed for 27 years, Adrian persisted in asking questions about design. "Wakubo Rei insists on full devotion and complete control in everything, especially in design. She almost gave me all the design business. Adrian, a self aware businessman, is also pushing forward with COMME des GAR ONS in his creative and down-to-earth business strategy.

Wakubo Rei and Adrian always hold the same view that although the main line is full of crazy elements in design, it can still be the engine of the whole COMME des GAR ONS. This is an important support for Adrian to balance business and design. "This will not change. She tries to do what she has never done before, entirely for herself." 42 years ago, when Wakubo Reitake started designing, everything was new because she had never done anything before. As time goes on, the width of design possibilities is narrowed. It is becoming more and more difficult to continue to use the ideas that we have adhered to and keep our resolve to innovate. Even so, Wakubo Rei did not forget his original intention. What Adrian did was to make a series of business lines follow the brand core laid by Wakubo Rei. When the brand spirit has been passed on, the business series goes along with this train in a logical way. Today, the men's clothing's nearly 6 main line share accounts for 10-15% of sales, and the other auxiliary line is 8%. "Business is not a dirty word. I like business. We can sell 50 US dollars in one day." Adrian said.

Adrian referred to the "PLAY" series that is very successful in business today. "This is Wakubo Rei's idea." He said. This series was created 12 years ago, and it was definitely subversive. In Adrian's view, "PLAY" is the opposite of design, only in the form of basic funds. For Wakubo Rei, this is a new direction. Before, she hoped that her design must be new, and now it is a series that has not been designed. There is only one Logo T-shirt and Polo shirt. This idea is brand new for COMME des GAR ONS ONS. "It does not reduce anything. It only increases the expression of the company. Anything Wakubo Rei does is a way of interpreting value. " Adrian even revealed that although the response of the "PLAY" series was not good at the time when it was launched, now it has reached the level of madness.

Of course, under the huge system of the fashion empire of COMME des GAR ONS ONS, Adrian's commercial suggestions were not adopted by Wakubo Rei. "She is my boss and a tough controller, but she is willing to accept new ways and information." Adrian said. Two people talk about ten things a day for nearly ten times. When there are differences, Wakubo Rei will euphemistically say, "I don't agree with you, but you can try."