What Kind Of Think Tanks Do Fashion Design Need?
About two or three years ago, with the development of the garment industry, the Chinese costume design industry began to become more and more unprecedented. Various design competitions, fashion reviews and designers' evaluation systems all came into practical and market definition standards.
It is undeniable that under the pressure of survival, whether enterprises, media, designers or institutions are struggling with individuality and practical restraint, as a product of this contradiction, designer brand has developed rapidly in recent years, and personality and market, art and utility have been balanced between them.
For a long time, the contradiction between art and technology, market and personality has always been a topic of discussion in China's fashion design industry. The pformation of the relationship between entrepreneurs and designers, the reform of higher education and the change of media orientation are only a matter of fact. In the middle of 2004, the industry also lamented the retreat of clothing critics.
There is no doubt that the development of design theory and respect for design wisdom is one of the keys to the pformation and upgrading of China's garment industry.
As an expert in the field of clothing theory, Professor Li Chaode questioned the trend of utilitarian "practical" trend by analyzing and thinking.
How can the market, art, ideology and practicality be balanced in the actual survival and development? At this stage, how to develop fashion design ideas, we also welcome you to discuss and explore together.
For a long time, many scholars in the field of costume design in China have lost many scholastic experts, and technical experts and entrepreneurs have become guests of the media and forums.
Perhaps this is a progress, recall the 80s and even 90s, promote the development of China's fashion design career, scholar type experts played an extremely important role.
Today's people seem to be more pragmatic and more admired by the practical frontline empiricist's opinions and opinions.
However, we have to see that once a trade organization loses its rational objective and strategically platform, its practice will bring some blindness.
Therefore, clothing design should pay more attention to the construction of think tanks, and create a theoretical team with an avant-garde vision, a broadened horizon, a solid theoretical foundation and a pragmatic style of work.
Thus, it will not fade away from the light of rational utilitarianism.
Industrial needs theory
Clothing design should first establish the concept of "big design" in theory.
Many years ago, I was inspired by Chen Yifei's concept of "great art". In 2003, the clothing times was also discussed.
In recent years, by analyzing the current situation of international and domestic design development, I have made more efforts to establish the importance of the concept of big design and the concept of big creative industries through the comparative study of research reports and school teaching plans at home and abroad.
Designers who do not have big design concepts can not become excellent designers. Without the concept of big design concept and big creative industries, there will be no theoretical support and lack of industrial foundation.
Britain is an old industrial country. After the two World War, the status of the design Kingdom gradually weakened.
Especially in the field of design and creativity, it lost the status of the leader of modern industrial design in the nineteenth Century.
However, since the beginning of Mrs. Thatcher's administration, the British government attaches great importance to the position of design in the national economy.
Especially after the Blair Labor Party came into power in 1997, many policies of reward and design were formulated.
Blair believes that "after entering twenty-first Century, the UK's creative industries will be very important for economic development, and we hope that enterprises will be able to demonstrate the British's high level of innovation, creativity and design through products and services to prove the strength of the UK".
Action and practice need support from theory and thought, and a mediocrity of utilitarianism is the proxy of speculative thinking. Its price can only be a seemingly prosperous conformity and blindness.
In the light of rational thinking, the Ministry of culture, journalism and sports has set up a revitalization committee for creative industries, and has carried out personnel education, relaxed restrictions and implemented reforms.
A rigid and conservative Britain is focusing on the design of ideas and creative industries. London is becoming the vanguard fashion city.
As a driving force, in the autumn of 2002, London held an unprecedented grand "design exhibition" and held nearly 50 activities such as "100% Design International Exhibition".
In particular, the "world creativity forum", held for the first time, has attracted wide attention.
As a result, the British creative industry created 112 billion 500 million pounds a year, employing 1 million 300 thousand people and creating 10 billion 300 million pounds of exports, making the UK creative industry account for 16% of the global creative industry.
People have to admit that the birthplace of the arts and crafts movement and the world factory in nineteenth Century are becoming the "world design studio" in twenty-first Century.
Among them, clothing, clothing and related fashion industry played an extremely important role.
If the development of the British creative industry is due to the advance of thought and the promotion of * * and the search for some source from the land that once was the world factory, the rapid development of creative industries in Mumbai, India, has provided direct inspiration and inspiration for the development of China's fashion and creative industries.
Building think tanks
Looking back on the development of China's fashion design in the past twenty years, universities as the cradle of think tanks and personnel training have made tremendous contributions. Many college graduates have become the backbone of the design field.
Without the original foresight of colleges and universities, and the accumulation of practical and theoretical results, today's clothing design industry is unthinkable.
If the authority and scholars of the colleges and universities in the eight and 90s of twentieth Century are the leaders of this industry, in recent years, the industry authority and scholars have been puzzled by the question of the model of talent training in the course of the development of the enterprises.
Scholars in Colleges and universities also blame themselves for their lack of reason in many accusations, but they can not offer reasons for refutation.
I always think that the training of clothing designers must face the market, but it is not the vegetable market, the radish vegetables, and the cheap ones.
The empiricism of utilitarianism can not replace the laws of serious thinking, self discipline and art design education.
Many years ago, I have divided the Chinese fashion design education into three types: fashion design, clothing engineering, clothing technology education and so on. They have three different goals, and they are interrelated, interrelated and have different division of labor.
But when some people confuse them, they blame the school for their lack of serious attitude and self righteous performance.
Faced with all kinds of doubts and puzzles, I think we need to strengthen the construction of professional think tanks to answer some macroscopic questions and micro thinking.
Such as the design is "big" or "small", so that the design must take into account the "big" design concept, and from the "small" point of view to solve the specific technical details (another issue related to this issue).
Respect design wisdom
Despising design thinking and theoretical construction, surrounded by technological utilitarianism and commercial utilitarianism, blindly following the misleading inducement of a few upstart entrepreneurs, the elite of fashion designers are losing themselves, so that they can neither find the real market nor open their own design wisdom.
It is an indisputable fact that there is a contradiction between the development of garment industry and the training of design personnel. The bottleneck of the garment industry itself is greater than the bottleneck of design talents, so many discontent is released to school education.
It is undeniable that many entrepreneurs spread their sweat in the ups and downs of the business world, contributed wisdom and achieved fruitful results. After completing the accumulation of primitive capital, some entrepreneurs have become capital capitalists.
We should see that behind their success, there are also the cry of design elites and the result of bedding.
The brilliant designers of the famous teacher strategy in the 90s of last century can not deny their design wisdom because of the new trend of today's garment industry development.
In recent years, the media and enterprises have despised design wisdom and regarded designers as puppets of enterprises.
Design wisdom and personal value are far from being valued due to philistine and utilitarian weakening of people's respect for creativity.
Of course, designers have gradually moved from the early academic type to open, pragmatic and hands-on, and have moved from paper design to practical design.
Faced with the progress of the market and the clothing industry, many experts who had thought out of the past have seldom participated in mainstream activities due to their age.
And the new generation of fashion design experts, who really have macro thinking, theoretical accumulation, broadening their horizons, international communication ability and noble life experience, are few.
Some of the experts who often appear in high-level forums and media are more creative than the practical ideas they have expounded. Some experts are always engaged in administrative work and neglect research. They seldom accept new fashion consciousness, no matter from emotion or life experience. Sometimes, seemingly important seminars have become a kind of empty talk around the left and right sides, or some nonspecific and universal words, which have further lost the respect for authority and ideology.
The banner of re tree theory and respect for design wisdom can be said to be one of the keys to the development of fashion design.
Calling for "Mutter Xiu"
Facing the plight of theory and practice reminds me of Germany in the early twentieth Century, China needs Mutter's character and thought to revitalize China's design and reform education system.
Germany is another rising industrial country after Britain.
In the early twentieth Century, industrial design in Germany also suffered. Today we are not in the same predicament today.
In October 1907, Hermann Mutter (1861-1927) established the "German industrial alliance", an organization similar to the designers' Association, a group of industrialists, architects and craftsmen.
Herman Mutter was an official in charge of craft and education at the then German trade department. He lived in England for 7 years and served as a building expert in the British Embassy in Germany. He has a deep understanding of the art and crafts movement in Britain.
After returning home, he decided to reform German design and design education. He wrote articles in great quantities, praising his design ideas and advocating the design principles of functionalism.
In particular, he deeply felt the serious shortage of German new design talents, determined to reform the German design education system, and immediately embarked on the design education reform experiment.
The alliance formed by Hermann Mutthew was strongly supported by German government and became the first official design center in the world.
The purpose of the alliance is to promote industrial design ideas in all walks of life, organize and persuade leaders of fine arts, industry, technology and trade to promote the quality of industrial design products.
All these practices directly gave birth to the world's first modern design school, "Bauhaus", so that Germany's design and manufacturing industry is still one of the leaders in the world's design and manufacturing industry.
Associating with the predicament faced by China's fashion design nowadays, does China not need the forerunner of theory and Mutter's character to maintain and promote the development of fashion design? From this, we can construct a benign "ecological chain" from theory to practice, from * * to enterprises, and every link is unbreakable.
Despising the theoretical grasp, holding the pragmatism attitude, and the media's right to speak into the advertising language of the enterprise, the industry has become "the emperor's new clothes".
From "creative Britain" to "passionate British fashion", from "the fragrance of Champs Elysees Street" to the "Baroque" romantic feelings permeated by designer blood in Italy, from the DreamWorks with split spirit in Mumbai to Shanghai's new creative industrial base.
The design art looks like the romantic disposition, actually actually relies on the powerful think tank, despises the spiritual wealth, the clothing design will also pay the price.
People have paid more and more attention to the wealth and happiness brought about by design. The design has increasingly made people dress up to a high standard and strict quality life. People are increasingly disgusted with the artificiality of the pseudo gentlemen created by the organizers, and pursue the real poetic quality of life and heartfelt treatment of life, which is inseparable from the guidance of thought.
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