On The Verge Of Lost Technology: How Can We Take A Road To Revival?

In the collection market, though this year, we repeatedly broke the discipline of silk yarn auction.

The contemporary silk works also have a flat scale auction to 100 thousand, but this can not explain the good performance of the whole silk industry. This is just the value that silk should be the first chair in the silk industry.

At present, "silk technology" is still a vague concept in the public's mind. Many people in the collection field can not clearly distinguish the silk and tapestry.

Of course, this is also closely related to the development of "sub-health" in the domestic silk industry and the textile industry as a whole.

Such a seamless skill of silk is regarded as a luxury in advanced customization, and how to "extravagance" industrialization?

Wang Haoran: since it is a luxury, not everyone can have it.

First of all, if the traditional process is to truly realize industrialization, the emphasis is not on technology, but on the liberation process.

Ultimately, this issue concerns China's design and manufacture in China.

Industrialization is only a vision.

Everything depends on what kind of mindset to do this. Before I do such a series of traditional textiles such as silk, there are many people in traditional culture or handicraft culture, but the question is whether the mentality is healthy or not. If the mentality is to stir up the garlic and stir up garlic to do culture, this culture is just like a style or an element, sweeping away without precipitation.

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[prospect] there are a lot of worries in optimism.

In April 16, 2010, China's top luxury brand NE TIGER created Lufeng double peony, which is the first time ever honored by the Chinese capital museum.

In this regard, how do you see the development prospects of silk?

Wang Haoran: this "Luan Feng amphibious peony" is made by us NE TIGER.

His silk is different from the general industrial commodity. He has multiple values such as economic value, artistic value and collection value.

The development of the silk industry should have returned to the public's perspective. Although it may not be necessary for the public to consume, there is at least one basic cognition, because luxury goods are not available to all people, but how can we make our people aware of the value of these traditional crafts? This may not be the only thing a development unit can do.

Personally, I am very optimistic about the development prospects of the silk industry. I believe that silk has such charm.

The combination of silk and the fashion industry also helped him to enter the hall of fashion, not simply a collection of literary and art collections.

Such a return is a new starting point for the development of silk and a turning point in the development of silk.

As a new generation of traditional culture, we can not only inherit our traditions with courage and passion, but also need wisdom.

At least I gathered a group of excellent post-80s, they gave up a lot of seemingly excellent career, I think they see that in the near future will be a beautiful rebirth.

It is a unique traditional technology of our country that the costumes of the silk are expensive.

And our great country has already become a luxury brand consumer country, but its luxury brand is limited. Does silk have the characteristics of Chinese luxury goods? What do you think?

Wang Haoran: there are three kinds of luxuries, one is the lacquer ware, the Zen dyed, the southern silver iron, and the nine grain burning, such as Kyoto and other places in Japan. In London, there are JermynStreet and SavileRow high order blocks.

This is the most authentic luxury class.

The second is advanced hand-made shops like Chanel and Armani, which are luxury goods.

The third is the GUCCI, D&G, YSL and other brand stores that are common in China's major shopping malls today. These can only be regarded as general luxury goods.

The difference between the three is mainly: the first is customer experience centered service, handicraft technology continues tradition, individual personality color is few, customers enjoy luxury, intimate and suitable quality of life, and customers pursue high-end lifestyle.

The most worth mentioning of this kind of luxury goods is not to rely on its world-famous brand and fashionable design to make profits, the main service is the original family of hundreds of years of family heritage noble.

The second category is mainly based on customer needs, and is still made by hand. However, driven by personalized consumption, too many of them are individualized design, which is a kind of adaptation that people can feel and adapt to things.

This kind of luxury goods mainly relies on brand and industry reputation, and its customers are mainly social upstarts and celebrities.

The third category of general luxury goods is mainly sold in the main products. Customers feel more about the design of the brand and their personality. They take the place of the global fashion empire and lead the consumption trend to make their brands equal to material money. So they maintain more brands than craft or customers themselves. This kind of luxury is the largest proportion of luxury consumption in China today.

Luxury consumption is divided into five stages: crackdown, the beginning of money, show off, adaptation, and lifestyle.

It is not difficult to see that China still stays at the beginning of "money" and "show off".

In fact, 70% of the luxury consumption in China is not contributed by the group that really has the ability to purchase. Rather, it is a group of actually purchasing power that is not enough to support the consumption of luxury goods. However, the purchasing power of a part is concentrated to buy some luxuries, which makes them feel that they are consuming such high-grade products.

Consumption needs guidance, but fortunately, the luxury consumption of luxury goods in China is no longer limited to flaunting it. Some people at a considerable level begin to choose adaptation and lifestyle.

As a traditional luxury product, silk is from China's luxury goods producers.

Today, the development of luxury goods in China still needs to rely on social policy to a large extent. The development of China's contemporary luxury goods industry is very late. There are still many imperfections. We can hardly raise the manual to the level of quality of life and lifestyle at all times. The brands that are now mature have not reached the level of high-grade luxury or palace luxury goods. They just stay in the brand management of general luxury goods. We can't stay in the DIY state for the pursuit of quality and manual knowledge.

Handicraft is the expression of exquisite life in every generation.

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[difficulty] perfect connection between tradition and fashion

The Research Institute of Xuan he silk is the only technology research institute specializing in the development of the silk industry in the world.

What are the difficulties encountered in the study of the Silk Road?

Wang Haoran: we did have many difficulties in studying the silk process. These problems are mainly focused on the contrast between traditional technology and modern technology.

The final problem is that it is very difficult for us to have the mentality of the ancients to face the craft many times.

Now is an era of distinctive personality. We have to give up our sense of individuality and integrate into a craft. It is very difficult and honest.

It's too difficult for this era.

This requires everyone's common sense to return to the age of craftsman and return to the apprenticeship system.

What are the bottlenecks in the development of the whole silk industry?

Wang Haoran: at present, the bottleneck of the development of the silk industry is mainly that the consumption awareness is not big enough. Secondly, the production and design of silk is not perfect enough.

The domestic market will still need a very long time to cultivate and consolidate.

Design is a difficult learning here. Almost speaking, few designers are familiar with Chinese fabrics. In such a situation, it is hard for a good cook to grasp the ingredients when facing a strange food.

Design is precisely one of the main factors for whether silk can return to the market.

Japan and Switzerland have much to learn from this aspect.

As a research unit, what we can do is to protect the technology as much as possible, because a private funded research unit is not enough to achieve the reform of the industry. This needs to rely on the government's support in policy and capital.

But he is now breaking the pattern and constantly implementing the development plan.

Urgent need for government assistance

Now what is the effort of the Xuan he Silk Development Institute for the maturity of silk?

Wang Haoran: we are now working with the United Nations folk art international organization in Jiangsu to set up a training base for the needlework, which is small in scale. It aims to extend and deepen the establishment of the 1914 female workers' Institute. In second ways, we are restoring many of our own traditions. After all, we have a group of research teams behind us.

Do you have any good suggestions about the development of the silk industry?

Wang Haoran: if the industry wants to mature, we must first solve the technology and not blindly pursue mass production. For example, in terms of dyestuff, our traditional technology of dyestuff and dyestuff and mineral dyestuff is not good, and the color fastness is too poor. Our silk thread's finishing, quality and type are not complete enough.

In terms of colors and patterns, I haven't done much to inherit the tradition so that we can't do anything with distinctive national or regional characteristics, and our design concept is not right. We are now designing some style or element, and our East has its own life art system. We need to perfect and extend the creation design of our own life system, so that we can have our own things.

Secondly, the industry must not be impetuous. We must take a serious and pragmatic approach because the weak manufacturing sector is the weakness of the national economic barriers.

Because manufacturing is not an industry like energy and real estate, it is more important for a country to have sustained vitality.

Japan, Germany, Switzerland, the manufacturing industry of these countries are relying on a solid step forward.

Impetuosity will be superficial, and the same is true for every culture.

We can not realize the strong points of our culture and can not produce a kind of elegant quality that mature culture should have.

China will become a boring country, because it does not know which way to use its resources rationally and lose its attraction to other countries.

Such a China is superficial and will be forgotten.

Third, and most importantly, the support of the government and the community.

The development of traditional national industry is of great benefit, because only in this way can we have an excellent manufacturing industry.

We can no longer deal with the "processing" level, because the longer we do this, the more capital we consume, the time, the technology and the money.

Hermes has been paying attention to Chinese traditional handicraft, and is trying to launch a new brand line.

These are opportunities. If we miss the opportunity, we don't know if there will be any more. No longer can Xinjiang's long staple cotton be sold to "MUJI products" produced by Japan.

It is not simply a question of whether an industry can survive or not. It is not simply a question of whether a cultural element survives. It is related to whether China truly represents the issue of Chinese products.

With one person's strength, we can make the silk, embroidery, cloud brocade and so on become the class luxury goods in Japan. And what I worry about is that China does not enjoy the aristocracy based on the way of life. Then how far can we go like this? After all, China is different from Japan and Europe, but if the brand is weakened and the consumption consciousness of the whole people is indifferent, we will not have luxury.

In this regard, the government and guild will be of great help.