2010 Zero Waste Design Is Sought After.

You are dressed in nature. Fabric Made of T-shirts, you hang your clothes on the balcony after you wash your clothes, and you send the clothes you no longer wear. You are complacent with this green fashion lifestyle. But to be honest, these actions are only superficial. Nowadays, the environmental protection process in the fashion industry has touched the root: Zero Waste (Zero Waste).

Zero waste designers strive to create the way of clothing, the essence is to spare as little cloth as possible. This is not an experiment with an eccentric innovator. If everyone does this, it is a good way to eliminate thousands of tons of rubbish every year. People in the fashion industry know that 15%~20% fabrics are eventually thrown into the trash cans, because it is much cheaper and more convenient to lose them directly than using the remaining fabrics.

Now, at last, people can no longer tolerate such a "throw away". A group of young designers with common interests spent a few years quietly doing the practice of zero waste clothing. The key lies in the reform of the tailoring methods and some changes in the basic styles of basic clothing. Though it sounds like a small independent band, but in the fashion world, once it becomes the focus of the topic, it will be hard to tell the future.

In September, it may be inspired by the American TV show Project Runway. The Parsons the New School for Design in New York will set up the world's first zero waste fashion course in September. The book "sustainable fashion: changing clothing and dressing methods" (Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Way) will be listed in the book of two zero waste designers Alison Gwilt (Alison Gwilt) cooperating with Holly Mcqueen (Holly McQuillan), which will debut in New Zealand in the spring of next year, and will also be listed in New York in autumn. And next March, a No Waste/Zero Waste will be held at the Averill and Bernard Leviton A + D Gallery in Columbia University, Chicago.

Many popular culture experts believe that this series of activities for zero waste is "a good idea of epoch-making". Luxury brands have grown up. The design methods and fashion attitudes of mainstream fashion designers are "stubborn and unchangeable". If the fashion world is to make a contribution to environmental problems, the task will naturally fall on the younger generation. What is more practical than teaching in a classroom? Young designers learn from the classroom how to make clothes with a zero waste method and form a solid idea. Later he may make clothes all his life, because he will think clothes should do so.

Repeated failures and repeated trials and practical problems

Devote oneself to Zero waste The designers are all young, obscure young people -- Mark Liu, Julian Roberts (Julian Roberts) and Candra Roz (Zandra Rhodes), Australia's Susan Dimas (Susan Dimasi), and Mark's (Chantal Kirby), Mcqueen Holly of New Zealand, and Malaysia, who are now working in New York.

Among the designer innovators who have made great determination, the most important promoter is Finland designer Rissanen, who is the first assistant professor of sustainable fashion design at Parson Design Institute. It is he who works with the Scott Mackinlay, the advocate of the natural fashion brand Loomstate, to teach new zero waste courses together with Scott McKinley. They not only do theoretical research on zero waste design, but also want to promote zero waste clothing into formal business operation.

Risann has completed his doctorate at University of Technology Sydney (his Ph.D. thesis is "fashion creativity without fabric waste"). He understands the ins and outs of zero waste, and he has run a Menswear brand Usvsu before. "I have to relearn the design." He talked about his first experience in the zero waste area. "The first and a half years were a repeated process of repeated failures."

"A lot of failures." He stressed that some shyness took a look at the floor of the design room, "but this is what you should learn."

One way to eliminate wastage is to create a new type of clothing -- to adjust the sleeves, pockets and collar design. He agrees with all the right cutting techniques and makes the fabric piece together. Ruthorne calls this method "jigsaw cut" and puts it on her blog zerofabricwastefashion.blogspot.com. Another way is to simply use the fabric, not to do more details, just cover it directly on the model, then fold, slice and sew it up.

As you can imagine, these skills are hard to get much support from manufacturers now. Parson, Dean of the school of design, Simon Collins (Simon Collins) said: "they all have their own set of processes, and it is very difficult to make up their minds to change."

The economic condition and infrastructure of the garment factory determine the difficulty of implementing zero waste clothing. For example, the standard fabric width used for trade garment denim products is 60 inches, zero waste. Design The width of fabrics advocated is different. Although manufacturers realize that change can really reduce waste, unless they are willing to add a product line, the cost of completely updating a batch of garment equipment is too great. Scott McKinley's Loomstate brand can do this because he got financial support from a big cowboy cloth manufacturer.

Now only a few non fashion brands and retailers have the power to change themselves. For example, the American retail giant WAL-MART supermarket has made great efforts to update items on the shelves and tell suppliers that they only need some kind of energy saving light bulbs (which can save 75% of energy than incandescent bulbs), so long as some concentrated liquid detergent (which can save 50% of water). In 2008, WAL-MART even launched a long list of zero waste products in all stores to recommend to customers.

No waste, no loss of fashion beauty.

There is still a dilemma in fashion brand's zero waste. How can we achieve zero waste without sacrificing fashion? The designer knows clearly that in the fashion world, if things are not beautiful enough, you can't sell them any way you like. This is also Parson's zero waste classroom needs to learn and conjecture. For example, jeans that everyone will wear, how to design zero waste jeans instead of sacrificing the beauty of fashion?

"Cowboy is the most wasteful material and the most polluting garment in the making process." Simon Collins said. Jeans are very expensive in dyeing and washing, and the popularity of washed jeans is a disaster. The trend is that the denim is dyed first and then washed. After buying the home, customers will buy the salt and everything else that you can't imagine and wash them repeatedly in order to get personalized colors.

In this course, students are exploring how to change cowboy making methods and subsequent treatments. Rusonen will tell them that a plain non chemical dye denim will usually be made into a classic five Pocket Jeans, but if you reduce one or two pockets or make some simplification at the suture, you can save much cloth.

Another alternative is, of course, to reuse the broken cloth. Crimped flowers and other decorations are made from rags, and larger pieces of rags can also be used to make a brand new thing, such as underwear. "No matter how hard you think, I think the challenge of zero waste clothing is mainly to arouse the conscience of the fashion design industry," said ruthorne.

In fact, zero waste is not a new idea. In the history, the ration rationing during the war gave the fashion designers the opportunity to create new styles. Cocoa Chanel then abandoned the so-called high-end fabrics, made some "inferior" fabrics into convenient women's daily clothes, "liberated them" and gained the fame of prosperity. What is now obsolete weaving and cloth art is also a forerunner of zero waste.

And ruisan's interest in zero waste is also derived from 6 years ago, who was learning fashion design in 19th Century and 20th Century. He was attracted by the oblique cutting technique of Madeleine Vionnet, a French dress designer. This method of tailoring began to save material, but produced a great sense of beauty. Ruisanen was inspired by Madeleine Vionnet. Or, he wants to endow with new meaning of zero waste.

He said, "if a garment is made, if it wastes 15% of the fabric, it will cause my resentment." Our faith is always better designed, rather than wasted by beautiful clothes. "